Zum Rössle
➤ Dietenbach 1, 79199 Kirchzarten-Dietenbach, Germany
Méditerranéen, Fruit De Mer, Végétarien, Européen, Allemand
"With Patrick Franke, the Landgasthof Rössle in Kirchzarten (approximately 10 km east of Freiburg, an extremely ambitious, at the same time modest and very natural patron is located in the romantic tribal valley. The house places special emphasis on regional, seasonal and Mediterranean cuisine. Unfortunately, I have not been able to stay in the connected hotel yet, but I would like to pick up on the next occasion, because I am very excited about the very well maintained, modern rooms. As part of an invitation, I could enjoy a wonderful three-course menu full of strengths from Patrick Franke and his team. In recent months, I have not been able to gout such a harmonious variety of aromas, consistencys, colors, textures and aggregate states on a plate, within a plate. Each food is such a skillful composition and is a true pleasure both tastefully and visually. As an appetizer I had Bachsaibling with my own rye, including thin slices of gurke and ginger, accompanied by a fresh cucumber ice cream and a blunt ginger mousse. The fish was buttery and extremely fresh. For the first minutes, but the cucumber ice cream seemed too much to kill the flavor nerves (I admit: ice is not one of my favorites... later, when something was melted, it was quite wonderfully connected to the other consistencies of this appetizer. The biggest surprise for me, however, was the ginger, which I usually find too dominant and whose taste I often do not get so clear. Now his sharpness put a wonderful contrast on the freshness of the cucumber and the physicality of parrots. As topping, some krusty peanut pieces were top – just brilliant! So I could also dispense with the white bread served with olive pieces. I drank a fine Sauvignon Blanc from Baden-Württemberg, who once again emphasised regionality. The main course with two lamb pieces, which were still too red in me, was accompanied by a potato tree cake and exotic looking charred and very long cooked jus. The stem cabbage apparently grows similar to green cabbage and tastes very strong-aromatic, therefore is a wonderful, rustic companion to the lamb. A kind of onion jam that had almost the appearance of cwetschgengsälz ensured a slightly sweet component. The biggest surprise, however, was the potato pancake: elegant, finely marbled, amazingly light. Some slices of earthy black root. Perfect. I drank a strong Barbera d ́Alba from Ruvei from 2014. Although I usually waste Dessert, I tried this time. The focus was on apples in various forms of administration and expressions: as sorbet, as scattered cakes, as parfait, as jelly, as a small “snail noodle”. Also here: different colors and aggregate states and textures. And long ago not everything sweet, but also herbs and crispy, sera and bite. Almost like a trip through the year and the different harvest times. A little coarsely ground cinnamon complete the various flavors and could be ribbed as a spice. To this wonderfully rounded dessert I have a large Piedmontese Moscato with a very penetrating quince aroma. All three corridors seemed to me both in a fundamental and refined way, as well as grandios. Here you get a high consideration for the individual ingredients of a meal. On very large, expansive, bead-shaped plates, of which I found in particular the curved shape, which was used very harmoniously for the appetizers (is certainly also suitable for soups. The service was also open and turned to the guest as highly professional and fully concentrated. Questions about individual ingredients or preparations could be answered immediately safely and naturally. The team seemed perfect. Here the communication works in a pattern."
